Nu Awlins
Just practise saying it before you leave - reeeel slow and in one long word.
Our first visit to Nu Awlins was nearly 20 years ago and we discovered New Orleans
does for music what Hawaii does for pineapples! Actually, when during WW1 New Orleans
became a recreation port for sailors, the brothels were closed down (to protect the
boys) and the musicians left for Chicago, or anywhere!
Bourbon Street
Bourbon Street is the centre of tourist excitement in the French Quarter and it is
really just a street of bars, clubs and holes in the wall selling grog and Mardi
Gras paraphenalia. On our first visit, each bar seemed to resonate to the sound of
'When the Saints', while on a more recent visit the tune had become 'Ain't No Sunshine'.
The trouble with Bourbon Street is that there are just only so many days and nights
one can drink Hurricanes (they can dissolve carpet when spilt so I hear) and dance
badly with a lot of drunks during the afternoon.
We do, however, recommend a visit to the House of Blues, you just don't know who
might be performing - we caught Dr John last year on a home town visit.
Eating in Nu Awlins
Food has an important role in Nu Awlins and no doubt you should try beignets (icing
sugar covered doughnut) po'boys (big long French bread sandwiches) and gumbo (spicey,ricey
stew with veg and seafood/chicken etc depending on variety).
Cafe de Monde on Jackson Square is the tourist mecca for coffee and beignets, you
may have to queue. Just off Jackson Square on Chartres Street is La Marquise, a fabulous
little patisserie frequented by the street entertainers - ideal for coffee and something
delightfully sinful. |
 We made a culinary pilgrimage to The Commander's
Palace for their Jazz Brunch. We recommend you do book ahead. Phone (504) 899-8221
Get there by taking the tram down Charles Street to the Garden District with all
it's wonderful mansions and then before going to brunch take a walk. Wander around
the above-ground cemetery almost opposite the restaurant and then down to Rue Magasin
with all its antique and curiosity shops.
Jazz
Brunch at the Commander's Palace is a set price menu,
which didn't seem awfully expensive but somehow with wine (Himself found a New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc at a price and we just had to have it!) the bill (plus tip) was rather
significant, but it was a memorable meal.
http://www.commanderspalace.com/new_orleans/menu_brunch.php#jazzbrunch
For modern American cuisine, we recommend Herbsaint on Charles Street, a brisk walk
from Canal Street. This restaurant had not been open terribly long when we went but
was already gaining a reputation with the locals for fabulous food, the chef and
part owner was sourcing the best produce from around the US and serving delicious
and innovative food - we lunched there on three occasions.
http://www.americascuisine.com/neworleans/herbsaintmenu.html
Liz Shaw
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New Orleans or is it Nu
Awlins? This is how it was before Katrina — now just a fond memory.