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Perfect Paris - Liz Shaw explains how she gets the most from her Parisian experiences!

Hotel des 3 Colleges

Some years ago, we were fortunate to have friends recommend a wonderful 3 star hotel in Paris on the Left Bank in Quartier Latin (the student quarter).

Hotel des 3 Colleges 16 rue Cujas
Telephone: 0033 1 43 54 67 30
Fax; 0033 1 46 34 02 99

The rates are about $200 NZ for a room with a bath. Beds are not large so you may prefer two singles - French must be more romantic as most beds are only double! By selecting a bath you have a little more room, but be warned hotel rooms in Paris are tiny.

The Location is Perfect

The location of this hotel is perfect. You step out the door on to a narrow pavement, just a few steps from Boulevard St Michel and a couple of blocks from the Seine. Nearest Metro is Cluny La Sorbonne, down Boulevard St Michel.

Little Athens

Very near is the touristy but fun eating area of Little Athens is just off the corner of Boulevard St Germain and St Mich. There are dozens of restaurants each competing for your business, complete with touts who endeavour to determine your nationality and call to you in 'your' language. We chatted to one of these gentlemen, a charming Egyptian civil engineer and asked for some insight as to how he determined nationality. Apart from looks and colouring he found style of dress helpful - apparently we dressed like Danes! The prix fixe or set menus are definitely the cheapest way to go - to order otherwise you may find one main course costs more than a 3 course prix fixe.

Likely menus could include Salad Nicoise, Chicken with pommes frites (chips) and creme caramel for around $20 NZ.

An Absolute Must

An absolute must visit in Little Athens is the Caveau de la Huchette, a bar/rock and roll club in Rue de la Huchette. fantastic dancing, if they have live music it is almost a send-up of French jazz bands.

Close to Hotel des 3 Colleges

Also near Hotel des 3 Colleges is Rue Monsieur Le Prince (off Boulevard St Michel) which has heaps of restaurants. There is a laundrette! in the residential area Rue St Jacobin - also a fruit shop, wine shop etc if you decide to take a picnic up to Jardin Luxenbourg just up the hill.

Also round the corner in Rue Souffetard (or similar) is a good coffee shop (next to McD's) for takeaway coffee. We do recommend the hotel for its fab location - it is clean and well run.

Madame Speaks English

We have sent a number of friends here and Madame speaks wonderful English for when one's French runs out! One can find cheaper accommodation (Montmartre or further out) but the real joy for us is just waking up in the centre of Paris

Arriving in Paris

When you arrive in Paris, if you are coming from Charles de Gaulle airport, the taxi fare may be around $80 NZ. You can catch a bus or take the RER train. I can't advise on latter two as we are usually tired after a long flight and just want to get into town quickly and easily without having to lug our bags - somehow the taxi fare just doesn't seem such a bad idea!

Using the Metro - dead easy but one useful hint - the entire system of maps is based around the terminal or last station on the line in which ever direction you are going. So . . . locate where you are going - note name of end station in direction you are going then follow the signage eg Porte d'Orleans, Porte de Clignancourt.

Hints and Tips



The French are terribly polite and always greet each other formally - even shaking hands with co-workers when arriving to work so we always say Bonjour Monsieur, Madame or Madamoiselle - to shop people taxis whatever. The French tend to say Madame, rather than Madamoiselle if there may be some doubt about whether a woman is married or not!

When in a fruit shop or market - always point to fruit you want - don't as we do, pick it up yourself!

A Perfect Day's Walk



A Perfect Day's Walk to Acquaint Yourself with Paris
This is just our favourite walk and gives you a wonderful sense of the city.
Head down Boulevard St Michel, have coffee at the little square just before with fountain where students hang out or stop on the corner down by the Seine. You will walk past the Cluny Museum and can see from the street some of Roman ruins.

Turn right and walk along to first bridge on to Ile de la Cite -Sainte Chapelle is on your left - exquisite medieval chapel with most glorious stained glass. Further along is Notre Dame - visit now or save for later.

Pompidou Centre



Head off to Pompidou Centre - the most wonderful modern art collection imaginable in a startling building. Top floor post impressionists, gorgeous views of Paris roof tops and you can stand in a room alone with 4 Picassos! Great light, Second to top floor has more recent collection.

From Pompidou Centre walk on top of Les Halles - underground shopping centre once a market, past St Eustache on to Rue de Rivoli - must be close to lunch time and if you step off the main street you can find some inexpensive and delish little brasserie. Opposite the Louvre and on Rue do Rivoli is Palais Royal - take the street to right Rue de Valois (when looking at it) and there is an entrance - walk around the lovely shops.
The Louvre will need its own day or another visit.

Head off through Jardin des Tuilleries - an icecream is essential - delish flavours choc, coffee, fruit!

At the end is Place de la Concorde, the beginning of Champs Elysee, the Millennium Ferris Wheel. Cross back on to the Left Bank and either look for a Metro as your feet are sore or walk along Boulevard St Germain or the Quai (lots of antique shops here).

Other Paris Musts



On Left Bank other musts are Tour Eiffel, Musee d'Orsay Art Gallery (once a railway station, you will have to queue for this one).
Another special is Avenue Montaigne - where all the design houses are. When I visited my friend and I plucked up courage to go into the first (Nina Ricci) the staff were lovely, they noted our appreciation of beautiful things and so we went into about 7 shops including Dior, Chanel, Valentino . . . an absolute must do - even if you feel very poor and badly dressed! which you can't help.

Two department stores worth a visit are Printemps and Galeries Lafayette (next to each other). If you do decide to buy something - there is a funny system of chosing the item then going somewhere else to pay for it, then back to collect it!

At Place de La Madeleine there is a lovely little flower market but more interestingly the two wonderful grocery shops
Fauchon (lots of little shops) and the other I can't remember the name of! However the displays of food are artworks and worth a visit.



Let us know about your Paris experiences, recommendations and tips.